How to fit Artificial Grass

Artificial Grass Installation Guide BRIEF by Cutting Edge Grass Ayrshire

Artificial Grass QUICK/BRIEF Installation Fitting Guide

Normally (but not always) artificial grass is fitted where the original natural grass lawn was situated. The first step is to hire a turf lifter or dig out the turf manually and make a total excavation of around 75mm/100mm. Fit tanalised timber baton lengths (or composite/metal/plastic system) around the perimeter of the area to be fitted with synthetic grass (secured by stakes into the ground). Artificial grass CAN however be fitted without using a timber frame but doing so may be beyond the average DIYer.  Compact the excavation with a compactor plate which can be hired from most tool hire depots. Apply a suitable weedkiller to the soil. Slope the soil downwards towards the perimeters or lowest points and then lay a semi wet mixture of postcrete and whin dust (or similar) all around the run of the edge restraints (on the inside), this should be around 100mm wide and it's purpose is to stop weeds growing up through the edges of the artificial grass and to stabilise the edges. Install a layer of weed membrane and carefully attach it to lower edges of the batons and this time spread an additional thin layer of dry postcrete/whin dust mix right into where the membrane meets the timber baton (if used) Spread around 50mm/75mm of Type 1 sub base (for ground stabilisation and drainage) and rake/spread it level, wet it and then compact it with a compactor plate. Spread around 25mm of whin dust, wet it and again level it and then compact. Make sure that the whin dust is sitting at the correct height as you will be attaching the artificial grass to the top of the batons. If you make the sub structure slightly crowned/raised in the middle it will produce a more natural effect and counter any potential future settlement. Lay a second layer of weed membrane. Now roll out and lay your already cut synthetic lawn into it's correct position (pile or dull side usually facing the house). In an ideal situation you should leave the grass lying for around 24 hours to let any creases come out. Next day attach the grass to the batons with galvanised nails or stainless steel screws and trim to the desired shape and size. Remaining creases can be dealt with by using a carpet stretcher. 6 inch galvanised nails or artificial grass pins can also be hammered into the other internal areas of the grass to help secure it down, but avoid trapping the grass blades. The nail heads should be hidden by the grass blades. We don't recommend using sand but if you decide to, you can apply kiln dried sand and brush it in until it is no longer visible on the top (this is normally done with a mechanically powered brush). The sand adds weight to the grass and helps support the grass blades in your new beautiful artificial grass lawn (with the development of new artificial grass technology it is often, no longer essential to add sand to your new artificial grass).

Finish by brushing up the pile, as the grass will come in a compact state on the roll.

The depth of the hardcore sub-base is dictated by the soil type, location, drainage etc.

The above guide is a DIY guide only, our professional installations are somewhat different and take years of practice and learning.

Dog Owner Grass Fitting

We recommend that a grass designed for pets is used, which would normally be PU backed or sometimes mesh backed. Avoid the cheaper latex backed grass, if you can and best practice is to only only lay a weed membrane over the compacted earth i.e under the hardcore sub-base (not directly under the grass) to allow faster urine drain away. If you lay the membrane directly under the artificial grass it is very likely to pool and cause odours. The Type 1 and whin dust should be substituted by limestone chippings and then 6mm drainage stone to allow fast drain away.